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Baker, Samuel White, Sir, 1821-1893

"The Albert N'Yanza, Great Basin of the Nile"


The men thought us perfectly mad, and declared that we should be
murdered immediately when on the other side; however, they prepared for
crossing the river in case of treachery.
At the last moment, when the boat was about to leave the shore, two of
the best men jumped in with their guns; however, the natives positively
refused to start; therefore, to avoid suspicion, I ordered them to
retire, but I left word that on the morrow I would send the canoe across
with supplies, and that one or two men should endeavour to accompany the
boat to our side on every trip.
It was quite dark when we started. The canoe was formed of a large
hollow tree, capable of holding twenty people, and the natives paddled
us across the rapid current just below the falls. A large fire was
blazing upon the opposite shore, on a level with the river, to guide us
to the landing place. Gliding through a narrow passage in the reeds, we
touched the shore and landed upon a slippery rock, close to the fire,
amidst a crowd of people, who immediately struck up a deafening welcome
with horns and flageolets, and marched us up the steep face of the rocky
cliff through a dark grove of bananas. Torches led the way, followed by
a long file of spearmen; then came the noisy band and ourselves--I
towing my wife up the precipitous path, while my few attendants followed
behind with a number of natives who had volunteered to carry the
luggage.


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